The Language of Autumn at Sapa Istanbul: Fire, Smoke and the Essence of the Season
Featured in the MICHELIN Guide 2026 selection, Sapa Istanbul reinterprets Anatolia's culinary heritage through the distinctive character of open-fire cooking with a new autumn tasting menu created by Chef Ümit Dere. Seasonal ingredients such as chestnuts, mushrooms, celeriac and plums come together with embers, smoke and balanced acidity, bringing the diverse flavors of autumn to the same table.
Is a season's expression in the kitchen simply a matter of changing ingredients? Or are the warmth of fire, the traces left by glowing embers and the arrival of an ingredient at precisely the right moment equally important parts of the story?
Sapa Istanbul's new autumn menu takes shape around these very questions. Chef Ümit Dere brings the familiar flavors of Anatolian cuisine together with contemporary cooking techniques, treating open fire not merely as a method of preparation but as one of the defining elements of his culinary philosophy.
A Kitchen in Tune with the Rhythm of the Season
At Sapa Istanbul, autumn finds its expression in the earthy aromas of chestnuts and mushrooms, the distinctive character of celeriac, the tartness of plums and the transformation of cauliflower over glowing embers.
At the heart of the menu lies open fire.
Sometimes appearing as a delicate hint of smoke, at other times as the pronounced character of fire-roasted ingredients, fire becomes a means of expression that brings out the natural flavors of each ingredient.
Rather than simply recreating traditional recipes, this approach seeks to rediscover the flavors they have left in our culinary memory through new combinations.
A Journey Through Anatolia, Beginning with the First Bite
The tasting menu opens with three distinctive amuse-bouches.
Etli Kadayıf brings together beef short rib, bone marrow sauce and tart green apple over buttery shredded kadayıf pastry, creating a balance of sweetness, acidity and rich meat flavors. İsli Mantar Ezme, prepared with chestnuts and mushrooms, combines contrasting textures within a crispy baklava roll, while Külde Zargana, accompanied by salmon roe and puffed tarama semolina, introduces a seafood-focused beginning to the experience.
The menu continues with Izgara Kereviz, where grilled celeriac meets green apple, orange and pear to create a refreshing transition.
Inspired by the Black Sea tradition of anchovy pilaf, Aslan Balığı is reinterpreted with crispy rice, black garlic purée and a tangy herb salad. Katıklı Pide, meanwhile, offers a contemporary take on Anatolia's regional flavors, combining beef tenderloin, black cabbage, pickle brine and labneh.
Main Courses Defined by the Character of Fire
The influence of open-fire cooking becomes even more pronounced in the main courses.
Közde Lagos is served with spicy and tangy white cabbage, a sauce prepared from the fish's own bones, and sautéed herbs. The smoky character imparted by the embers complements the fish's natural flavor.
Kuzu Sırtı features lamb loin accompanied by a plum-infused lamb bone marrow sauce, smoked cauliflower purée and tangy grilled cauliflower. The richness of the meat, the acidity of the fruit and the aromas of fire-roasted vegetables come together in a carefully balanced dish.
The menu concludes with Itırlı Kadayıf. Prepared with rose geranium ice cream, orange, mulberry molasses and labneh, the dessert offers an aromatic and refreshing interpretation of traditional kadayıf.
A Restaurant's Story Begins Beyond the Kitchen
Sapa İstanbul’un kimliğinde yalnızca tabaklar değil, mekânın hikâyesi de önemli bir yer tutuyor.
At Sapa Istanbul, the restaurant's identity is shaped not only by the dishes it serves but also by the story behind the space itself.
Inspired by Don Quixote, the literary character who never gave up pursuing his ideals, the restaurant aims to create a distinctive experience beyond Istanbul's established gastronomic routes.
The Don Quixote figure displayed on the restaurant's wall is one of the symbols of this philosophy. The energy of the open kitchen, the tranquility of the spacious garden and the thoughtfully designed atmosphere bring together the different dimensions of the restaurant's identity.
At Sapa Istanbul, gastronomy extends far beyond the food served at the table. Jazz evenings, live music performances, DJ sets and tasting events at Sapa Sahne transform the dining experience into a social gathering.
Autumn: A Reason to Rediscover
Chef Ümit Dere's autumn menu invites guests to look at familiar ingredients from Anatolian cuisine from a different perspective.
Whether through the smoky aroma of chestnuts, the balance created by pairing plums with lamb, or an unexpected interpretation of traditional kadayıf, this approach places seasonality at the heart of the menu.
With its new tasting menu, Sapa Istanbul presents autumn not simply through seasonal ingredients, but as a complete gastronomic experience in which fire, technique and culinary memory come together.
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